Skippaan nyt nuo muut (useat) mainitsemasi osat, mutta todellakin jos 3kk aikana on jo pari kertaa joutunut tuon vaihtamaan niin onhan se todellakin heikkoa tehoa.
Mulla on Blitzissä ollut sekä 7.5T että 10.5T kone ja kummallakaan ei ole ollut mitään ongelmia osien kestävyyden kanssa. Eikä muutenkaan ole ollut kestävyydessä ongelmia, ja varaosiakin autoon saa hyvin.
Totta, mutta kannattaa nyt ottaa huomioon se fakta että Striken ja Blitzin hinnan erotuksella saa Strikeen jo melkoisesti varaosaa joilla ajetaan todella pitkään.
Toisekseen, se nyt on vaan tyhmää maksaa kideradioista kun satasen halvempaan autoon saa gigaradiot..
Mitä nyt kukin sitten taas arvostaa.. 
Niin no toki jos auton valitsee vain radioiden ja hinnan perusteella, niin sitten kannattaa ostaa Strike. Vaikka toki gigaradioita saa ulkomailta parilla kympillä...
Assoahan saa suoraan gigaradioilla ja harjattomalla tekniikalla. Toki hinta kohoaa yli 300 euroon, mutta eipähän heti tarvitse osia päivitellä.
Ja ainakin ratakäytössä HPI, Asso ja Kyosho on jo pelkän painopisteen vuoksi Strikeä tai Slashia parempi, vaikkakin urheat harrastajat onkin viritelleet viimeksimainittuja matalammiksi. Ja kyllä ainakin itse mielenkiinnolla seurailen noita virittelyprojekteja, mielenkiintoisia ovat jos innostusta moiseen löytyy.
Ja ihan vain ulkomaalaistenkin foorumien perusteella tuo Strike ei mikään kestävyyden huipentuma ole, kun taas Blitz ilmeisesti kestää melkein mitä pommitusta tahansa. Ja on hyvä radalla. Samoin Slash kestää, tosin Slashin takahubit ilmeisesti antaa periksi aika nopeasti, mutta niiden tilalle toki saa kestävää osaa jos haluaa.
Jos ei tätä ole jo mainittu, niin kannattaa lukaista:
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2480Itseä toki hieman hämää kohta 5, jos nuo radiot ovat mallia "huonot" niin ei niistä hirveästi iloa ole. Tiedä sitten mikä on päivän tilanne, mutta jokatapauksessa kannattaa lukaista tuo keskustelu läpi ja katsoa mitä vinkkejä siellä on, esimerkiksi tuon idlerin osalta. Ettei tarvitse sitten oikeasti kerran kuukaudessa sitä vaihdella... vaikkei se sinua haittaisi, niin jotakuta toista voi haitata aika paljonkin jos autoa joutuu kokoajan ruuvaamaan.
Slipperi ilmeisesti on myös huonohko (lisää vaurioiden määrää muualla). Losi XXX-T:n slipperi ilmeisesti sopii autoon (n. 40 dollaria), mutta siihenkin menee jo jonkin verran rahaa. Jotkut ovat ilmeisesti Asson slipperiä tuohon sovitelleet, selvästi halvempi kuin tuo Losin oma. Kuuladiffi maksaa sen 34 euroa ainakin amainhobbiesissa (ratasdiffi on käsittääkseni avoin, joten sitä tuskin saa toimimaan järkevästi ratakäyttöä ajatellen). CVD-vetarit on 20 dollaria. Eli nuo päivitykset tekee sen vajaa 100 dollaria auton hintaan (tuota slipperiä ei mun kommentin perusteella nyt kannata ostaa, vaan katsoa jokin oikeasti sopiva). Tuo hintaero sitten jo nollaa aika hyvin Striken hintaedun muihin malleihin verrattuna (samaisessa kaupassa Blitz on 190 dollaria ja Strike 130 dollaria jos haluaa hintoja suhteuttaa) Strike on jos pelkästään noiden päivitysten jälkeen kalliimpi, joten voi hintaerolla siihen Blitziinkin hakea ne gigaradiot... ja sitten on Strikessä ne loput heikot osat vielä päivitettävänä.
Ja ettei asia menisi liian yksipuoliseksi, niin toki Blitzikin kaipaa päivityksiä. STRC Steering Bellcrank ja STRC Rear Camber Link Plate kun hommailee, niin hyvä tulee. Ensimmäinen on lähinnä suorituskyvyn parantamiseen, jälkimmäinen kestävyyden.
1. weak dogbones
2. "soft idler"
3. weak tierods
4. body sits too low
5. electronics issues
6. sloppy outdrives
7. soft axles
First are the weak dogbones.
Mine never bent, but I have seen ones that look like pretzels. Call Losi not Horizon first and see what they will do. I'm sure there are "harder" dogbones being made to be a running change. I got the CVA's and they are an awesome upgrade. They show no wear and I've used it!!
Second is the soft idler gear.
I lost mine when I wasn't using the best throttle control so the inside wheel was unloading coming out of the corner. Since the diff is open all the gears are spinning fast which heats up the idler and the hardened mair gear destroys the soft idler. I think that what happens either way the gear has to be made of steel. If you use a thick grease (one that will stick to the gears as much as possible) it will extend the like of the gear. I used Tamiya Anti-wear grease and it has worked very well. Best option is to used the plastic idler for the Slider sprint car.
Third are the tierods.
They can take alot, but first they will bend, then snap. Lots of options here. Lunsford Super Duty work I've heard with the ends from an 8ight servo link. I used Traxxas ones for Rustler/Slash..etc. The steering links for the Rustler are basically a direct bolt on for every link on the truck.
Fourth is the body sitting too low.
I started a thread about this it should be around somwhere. Check the latest post w/pic to see my most recent body height.
Fifth are the issues with the electronics.
I've heard of dead servos radios loosing bind..all kind of stuff. I'd have to say call Losi and explain whats wrong as simply as possible. I've heard if you are patient and polite they'll get you what you need. I'm sure they will have things figuired for the next "batch".
Sixth are the sloppy outdrives.
You can use soft pan car springs to keep tension on the outdrives, but they do get close to popping out on full droop. I'm going to try small foam spacers used on top of the bladders on TRF Tamiya sedan shocks to take the place of the small stock o-rings. I'll see how that works.....
The ball diff will elimate this issue although most open diffs of this type will have this problem to some extent..
Last are the soft axles.
I don't think this is much of a problem becase my truck had one bad the other showed no wear. It must have been left over from Sliders because that was a running change a while ago.Myös tämä kannattaa lukaista ajatuksella läpi:
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/showpost.php?p=93454&postcount=105 Well I’ve been asked many times at the track and on forums, what do I need to do to get a Strike to be competitive and stop breaking. A lot of this has been posted on this forum and others but I thought I’d put it all together on this one post to make it simpler for people to find it.
1. Body Rubbing on the shell – I used the Matt Sunderlage tip of using Slash Body mounts(#1914x) to increase to height of the posts. You can find some pictures and details of this at http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2031
2. Breaking front top turnbuckles – this is a VERY common problem due to poor design. Due to the poor material of the stock turnbuckles and the flex in the stock front pivot block, the front shock hit the top front turnbuckle and cause it to snap. There are a couple of things you can do here.
a. Aluminum front pivot block (LOSB2045) – this is a really good hop up (essential even) – installing this reduces the flex and makes it less like the shock and the turnbuckle with touch.
b. Some #4 washers (LOSA6350 ) – I use 8 #4 washers (2 on each screw) to space out the top turnbuckles further from the spring.
c. x2 hardened after market turnbuckles – I still snapped a stock turn buckle (and a Traxxas turnbuckle). The best option here is to get some Langford’s titanium turnbuckles or Losi 8ight 4 or 5mm turnbuckles. Part numbers for those can be found at http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6591
3. Breaking Shock ends – this is due to the EXACT same reason you break turnbuckles (the shock hit the turnbuckle). And the fix is the same. Stronger turnbuckles and less flex in the front pivot plate.
4. Bending dog bones – this was due to VERY poor material. Horizon have admitted as much as a call to them will get you a replacement pair (which are darker in color). A better option is a set of CVD’s. (LOSB3589)
5. Idler Gear – the stock gear is aluminum and gets sharked tooth pretty easily. This is due partly from the poor material it is made from and more so by the out drive pin snapping and making the out drive (and the diff) and little wobbly which in turn tears up the idler gear. There are several solutions to this that will assist. You can use one or all of them.
a. Ball diff LOSB3594 – these have hardened out drives that will run smoother against the idler gear. Still use some black grease
b. A steel idler gear – Hot racing have a locker with a steel idler gear (http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?partnumber=LSC1000T;c=472) and Robinson Racing will soon be providing something similar (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Reviews.aspx?ProdID=RRP9227)
c. Use the plastic idler gear from the Slider – this along with some antiware grease is a temporary solution. I found the teeth finally snapped from the steel diff anyways but it seemed to hold up better than the stock aluminum one. (LOSB3004)
6. Soft Out Drives (LOSB3551 ) – These things are SOFT! The chew up pretty easily and the pin snaps in between them and makes them loose and wobbly
a. Ball diff LOSB3594 - these have hardened out drives that will run smoother against the idler gear. Still use some black grease
b. You can try and harden them with something like Kasenit. Check out WYD post regarding this at http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2480&page=3
c. The pins going to snap whatever you do but you can keep the out drives “pinned” together by using a small piece of nitro host inside your out drive cups and the CVD’s (or dog bones). They will still get chewed up some but it will make the diff run smoother and less wear on your idler gear.
7. Slipper – this is a most important setting in saving your newly purchased ball diff or rebuilt stock diff. The slipper NEEDS to slip some. The pad ware out pretty easily and so do the plates. You can get by with this but better option is
a. XXXT slipper assembly. – you’ll need 2 plates and the pads
b. Associated B4 plates and pads – same as above but cheaper. You will need a 2mm spacer as the plates are thinner and fall below the threaded part on the shaft. You can put this spacer on the either side of the assembly so you can tighten it up and it slips properly. I found that if the spacer isn’t the exact right size you have to put it on the outside of the plates as on the inside against the top shaft bearing, it will put pressure on the shaft from turning properly.
c. Just the associated B4 pads – this wear better that the Strike pads. You’ll probably notice your plates will be a little tighter than the stock due to the different material. This is a quick and easy fix.
8. Ball Diff – this is a good upgrade but it’s not without its own issues.
a. Ensure that it’s properly greased. Some of them came without enough grease in them. Make sure you use clear silicon grease.
b. Run it in – this is easy to do – read the instructions that it came with it.
c. Make sure it is tight
d. Make sure the slipper is adjusted correctly. The slipper must slip – not the ball diff. When the ball diff slips with makes a different noise than the slipper (more of a barking sound)
e. You can upgrade the parts in the ball diff also if you like. See the blue text in the thread http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2480. There are also carbide diff balls available (LOSA6951)
f. Using the Ball diff with CVD’s, the CVD’s pop out of the out drives easily due to them being smaller than the out drive cups. I added some nitro hose as shock limiters in the rear shocks and a little negative camber to ensure this doesn’t happen.
9. Stock Electronic – This seems to be hit or miss. Some users experience unbinding, slow reverse etc. If you going to upgrade to a brushless system and new Tx Rx then you obviously have nothing to worry about. Call Horizon to get replacement if you have these issues and want to continue with the stock gear. They are pretty good at sending out new replacement parts (the trick is to figure out what is actually the issue). I had the slow reverse issue which strangely went away when I updated my Tx to a Spektrum Dx2 (weird I know…). Also swap out the Tx’s batteries. The ones it comes with are crap and it seems to help with the binding issue. Also the order in which you turn your Tx Rx on can make a difference. 