Eihän tuossa sisäänajossa tosiaan kauan mene jos ottaa asiakseen, joten ehtinet Mika kisoihin vallan hyvin.
Tuo moottorin sisäänajo tuntuu olevan salatiedettä. Syy on varmasti se, että valmistajat eivät osaa sitä kertoa. Sehän vaatisi joko webbisivun tai peräti kopioidun A4 paperin!
Jalaksen Timon ohjetta on yleisesti käytetty. Löytynee sieltä kaupan sivuilta, mutta voiko sitä suositella kun "ostetaan muualta, mutta palvelu otetaan sitten muilta". No se filosofiasta.
Tässä toinen löytämäni vaihtoehto. Asteet on Farenheitteja. Mutta mielestäni tämä tarina kuvastaa hyvin sisäänajon epätieteellisyyttä. Tämä on otettu R&W keskustelusivuilta. "Minää" en tiedä kuka kertoo. Yleisesti siis sisäänajo suoritetaan rikkaalla vaihtelevalla kierroksilla sekä riittävän lämpöisenä. Näin ajattelin itse tehdä seuraavalla kerralla. Mutta kerro miten sen Mika itse teit.
I have broken in a few negines so far, and from my experience, it seems as though the whole industry is moving away from the theory of idling for a couple of tanks. I personally go by what my mentor has taught me, and that is for the first start up, you drop a couple of drops of fuel inside the head (this lubricates the motor), then put the glow plug back on only about half way (This lowers compression enough to start it up the first time), Prime the motor (Plug exhaust with finger and bump it on the starter until fuel reaches the carb.), Put your glow igniter on and start it up. Once it is running, tighten your glow plug so it nice and snug, let it idle for 2 minutes to make sure it isn't going to stall on you. If it does, reastart it again. If it stays running for 2 minutes straight give it just a little throttle and progressively increasing to full Wide open throttle while richening the top needle out as far as you can without it stalling (Engine should be running at about 100 degrees). This step is very important too keep very close attention to the temp.
At 100 degrees Wide open throttle will not harm engine. This technique allows the bottom end spool up quicker whil properly seating the piston and sleeve without running at too hot a temperature. Do this for ONE ENTIRE FUEL SQUEEZE BOTTLE, not just one fuel tank, Now make your top needle adjustments for 140 degrees and run it at a little more than half throttle. Do this again for one squeeze bottle. Make your adjustments to run the engine at 160 degrees and run the motor at half throttle. Now make your adjustments for 180 degrees and run your engine at half throttle for one fuel squeeze bottle. Once completed with above mentioned, tune your engine for race (190-240 degrees, and run at track conditiones up to full throttle)
At all points of the break in, make sure to vary the throttle and not too just keep the throttle open at one rpm. Example: When I mentioned earlier to tune the top needle for 160 degrees and run at a little more than half throttle then you need to blip your throttle anywhere below and up to a little more than half throttle.
This is what has been passed down to me and engines will last under racing conditiones for over 8 gallons and outperform motors that have been broken in by idling. Good luck!
