sen verran varottaisin tuosta 4870x2:sta että vaatii sitten tehoa powerilta aika reilusti (yli 600w powerin tarttee) ja siitä tehosta lämmöksi menee enemmän kuin millään muulla kortilla koskaan.

Mitähän tuo tarkoittaa? Saman verran siitä menee lämmöksi kun se powerilta virtaa ottaa... oli kyseessä mikä kortti tahansa. Eikä tuo 4870X2 mikään ainutlaatuisen tehosyöppö kortti ole, onhan noita muitakin tehosyöppöjä.

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Onko autot kestäny vai miksi palstalla on niin hiljaista.

Lienee koko SC-luokka hieman hiljentynyt... :)

Pakko nyt kommentoida tuohon hyppimiseen...

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/showpost.php?p=89703&postcount=14

I was asked to check this thread out and give my thoughts on the subject.

Venting the body does make a difference. The amount of difference will not always be constant though from driver to driver. Losi made a short course looking body for the XX-4 a very long time ago, it made the car jump like crap. The 1/10 trucks are sensitive to windy days at the track when the 1/10 2wd buggies are not as sensitive to wind. The 2wd bodies fit tightly and 'wrap' the chassis preventing air from catching the sail that is a 1/10 truck or SCT body. If you have seen 1/10 trucks wheelie before, usually the sides of the bodies flap from catching wind and tend to make the truck start to speed wobble and get unstable sometimes rather than carrying on a straight path.

The thing is the cars are so light relative to the amount of air or force that can be transmitted through the body from catching air so it doesn't take much air to disrupt the car's path once airborne. If you grab your body with one hand and wave it fast in the air up and down (sort of palm the roof) you'll feel it but that is with your whole body's mass acting against that force....a lot more than the 4-5lbs your truck weighs. Also once the cars air airborne, you can briefly correct the car with the throttle, but usually you don't maintain the throttle wheel speed in the air so your tires slow down a lot. So hitting the brakes has little to no effect after the car has been airborne for a bit of time.

Venting SCT bodies does make a difference, mainly in when the truck 'drops' after it's reached the top of it's airborne path arc and it falling down to land. Once the truck leaves the jump and is in the air, it is losing speed and exponentially falls more straight down than the distance it covers. What that means it the longer the truck is in the air, the less the truck is passing through the air like a plane covering distance but the truck is falling straight down as if you were to drop it from your hands to the ground. When it does this the air acts more directly against the body surface creating more resistance and is where the blow overs happen.

SCT's tend to leave the jump face well and have a good arc and chassis posture in the air (same as a 1/10 buggy or truck would, nothing bad is happening yet) but after the wheel speed has diminished and the truck is falling down more vertically is when you'll notice the trucks do a wheelie or sorts in the air right before they land. There really isn't anything you can do to correct this if you leave the jump correctly. You can leave the jump 'incorrectly' which means attack the jump and lift hard or use the brakes a bit once the front tires aer in the air and rear tires on the jump face still to make the truck leave the jump at an excessive nose down posture. This is kind of what is needed for SCT's to jump decent most of the time however leaving the jump (with 1/10 or 1/8 cars) at an excessive angle often doesn't help. Reason is this is when the car is at it's fastest speed while airborne and traveling the most horizontal/distance than vertically in the air. So the rear of the body or wing pushes the truck level and if the angle is too severe for the speed, it can build momentum up in the chassis and still make it land nose high.

So you can vent the body so when the truck falls to the landing, it catches less air. There is a picture of my Blitz body from a race in January somewhere, it's vented a lot but would benefit from more venting on the front portion of the body. Or you can add a bit of mass to the chassis so that the air force is 'weaker' and acts less against the heavier chassis. I think you would need to add a minimum of 4oz to the chassis to see a noticeable difference with the blow overs but realistically I think it might require about 7oz to make it jump more safely like a 1/10 buggy does. We all know we don't want to add that much weight to our cars, so venting the body is the better of the two options.

Boldasin olennaisen kohdan.

Ja tosiaan, takavetoiset SC-autot on siis huomattavasti herkempiä leija-efektille kuin (ainakin tämän hetken) nelivetoiset.

Lainaus käyttäjältä: wilmo - 21.12.10 - klo: 14.28

On ehtinyt jo ainakin pikaisella Googletuksella ennakkotilattavaksi, hinta ei mikään mahdoton, $399.

http://www.shortcoursehobbies.com/team-durango-desc410r-4wd-short-course-truck-kit-preorder

Kotimaan hinta saadaan kun vaihdetaan yksikkö perässä. Kitti on 150€/$ kalliimpi kuin suorat kilpailijansa, lukuunottamatta Slashiä joka on vain muutaman kympin halvempi kuin isoD.

Sillä erotuksella että Slashissa tulee 2.4GHz radiot, harjattomat sähköt, akku, laturi ja servo mukana...

Saatan muistaa väärin ja samapa tuo kun kilpailuja ei ole, oliko puskurit pakolliset SC-luokassa?

Onhan tuossa puskuri takana, ei vain kovin skalemainen...

Lainaus käyttäjältä: mof - 18.12.10 - klo: 00.21

Lainaus käyttäjältä: Tomsantommy - 17.12.10 - klo: 21.15

Ainoa mikä ihmetyttää,niin missä aktiivi,huippukuskien mielipiteet on?
Paitsi jose,joka tekee askeleen edellä muita pr työtä

Niin no onhan täällä myös esim Spif sanonut mielipiteensä.

Mun mielestä en täytä kumpaakaan määritelmää (aktiivi tai huippu), vaikka mielipiteitä omistankin

Ei sitten jos ei kelpaa 

No, Vesan nyt ainakin voinee sitten laskea noihin mukaan 

Lainaus käyttäjältä: Futaba - 20.12.10 - klo: 01.54

http://rc10.fi/index.php?topic=36126.0

Täältä näyttäis löytyvän kuvia.

Mutta hyvä kun ne olis täällä eikä siellä.

Miksi ne pitäisi olla sähköautopuolella? Eihän tallit ole sähköautoja? 

Ainoa mikä ihmetyttää,niin missä aktiivi,huippukuskien mielipiteet on?
Paitsi jose,joka tekee askeleen edellä muita pr työtä

Niin no onhan täällä myös esim Spif sanonut mielipiteensä.

Omasta ajovirheestä johtue tukivarsi poikki edestä.. Nyt kysymys olisi et mitkä kannattais hommata tilalle? Onko jotain mitä suositellaan?

RPM tai vakio.

Kuinka monta wattinen tuon laturin virtalähteen(?) pitäisi olla jos latailisi 4s lipotinta 5a teholla? Tiedän että tähän olikohan se nyt PUI kaava jonka mukaan sen voi laskea mutta minä hömelö en osaa laskea sitä .

EDITTIÄ: Nyt kun vähän yritin enemmän etsiä sitä PUI-kaavaa niin sain tulokseksi että noin 80 wattia riittäisi 4s lipolle 5A teholla?

Jos laskee pelkästään tuon latausvirran ja akkujen jännitteen perusteella, niin 4*4,2V*5A=84W.

Toki olisi hyvä olla pelivaraa. Erityisesti kun kuitenkaan laturin hyötysuhde ei ole 100%... jos se on vaikka 80%, niin sitten tuosta tulisi 84W/0,8=105W. Ja itse ainakin laskisin vielä siihenkin virhemarginaalia... parempi liian tehokas virtalähde kuin liian tehoton.

Kertokaas onko nihm akut 8,4v 3000mah ihan kypsät jos on jo n 20-25x ladattu? kannattaako tuommoisista mitään enään maksaa?(15e)

Enpä itse maksaisi...

Liquid Rc(USA, 1dollarin postit) on nopea, nettisivut ovat hieman hitaat.
Hobbyking/hobbycity (Kiina, saksa jne.) on halpa ja siellä myydään sähköosia ja akkuja enimmäkseen (halpoja harjattomia, hyviä kokemuksia itselläni)
Amainhobbies (USA) on ainakin halvimmilla posteilla hidas, todella suuri kauppa muuten.

Tosin eipä Amain ole halvimmilla posteilla sen hitaampi kuin Liquid RC.

Tullista ne paketit on vielä joka kerta saanut hakea, vaikka osa paketeista on ollut pieniäkin. Näyttää ainakin Oulun tulli nappaavan amainin paketin lähes varmasti.

Itsellä on mennyt tasan kerran paketti tullin kautta, muuten on kyllä tullut suoraan perille...

http://www.rccaraction.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?&nm=Site+Features&type=news&mod=News&tier=3&nid=B99582704A0F4E8B809CB532C7024722

Alemmassa videossa esitellään auton suunnittelijana Dan Hissam

http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=438875&postcount=87

From Todd Hodge on Rc Tech:
 
Unfortunately and Jr. left the company before we started on this design of the new 2wd car. I wish he was at TLR to be a part of it as he was great to work with and I truly miss those days. The 22 was designed from the ground up with input from myself, Dan Hissam, Jukka Steenari, Mike Truhe, Billy Fischer, Matt Chambers, Dustin Evans, and a few others. Dan Hissam was the man behind the PC doing all the CAD work with input from Brent Redlin, Jukka Steenari and myself as he created this masterpiece. As a team, I feel we have done an impressive job with the design of the 22 and I am excited to see it in the hands of the consumer.

2/22/11 sounds like a good release date. We are working diligently on getting the car to market and it will be out in the 1st quarter of 2011.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
 
Its cool Steenari has been working on it, should be ace! :thumbsup:<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

Losilta uutta tuuppia...

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58496

Team Losi is dead, long live Team Losi Racing. This all-new 2WD buggy came from nowhere and broke cover only from diligent eyes spotting it on their TLR website - a day before the official press release got sent round.



LOSI:
Twenty Two Competition 2 Wheel Drive Buggy Kit:

The all-new TLR “22” 1:10 Electric 2WD Racing buggy redefines the norm and raises thestandard that all 1:10 electric off road racing buggies will be marked by.

For the past few months, the TLR team have quietly been gathering data, testing prototypes andaccruing information about the 1:10 off-road global race scene. The 22 is the result of manymonths of hard work and countless hours and thousands of laps of testing. Testing in the hotsunny climate of Southern California and the wet and often uncompromising weather of the UK,the TLR design team have encouraged and supported input from our global team drivers in thequest to deliver the most complete competition buggy in the world.

Specification:
Type:Electric Race Buggy
Scale:1/10
Length:389mm (15.125")
Width:250mm (9.875")
Wheelbase:284mm-288mm (11.81" - 11.33")
Chassis:2.5mm 7075 T-6 Aluminum
Suspension:Independent
Shock Type:Oil Filled with Bladder Compensation
Drivetrain:3 Gear and 4 Gear Transmission Ball Differential
Wheel Type:Dish
Wheel Diameter:2.2" (55.9mm)
Wheel Width:Rear 38.1mm (1.5"), Front 24.8mm (.980")
Tyre Compound:No tyres included
Spur Gear:76
Gear Pitch:48
Internal Ratio:2.43:1
Kit or RTR: Kit

Features:
01. Mid- and Rear-Motor Option
02. 2.5mm Hard Anodised Aluminium Chassis
03. Adjustable Caster via the Spindle (0, 3, 5, 10°)
04. 12mm Big Bore Aluminium Shock with Bladder Compensator
05. Adjustable Front Kick via Shims
06. All-Metric Hardware
07. Adjustable Spindle Carrier (Inline or Trailing)
08. Gull Wing Suspension Arm Design (Front and Rear)
09. Wide Range or Rear Toe Adjustability
10. Optimised Motor Placement for Balance
11. Simple Repair Bolt-On Camber Blocks
12. Innovative Steering Rack Design
13. 3.5mm Heavy-Duty Turnbuckles
14. Long-Life Titanium Nitrated Hinge Pins
15. Vertical Mounted Ball Studs
16. Optimised Battery Tray to Use Future Battery Technology
17. Dual Disk Slipper Clutch
18. Secure Battery Straps


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